Pyrenees day hikes
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While the daily grind certainly began to take its toll, it was also a time that brought some incredible opportunities and experiences that, even after all these years of travel, remain as precious memories.
But in the end it was the freedom of the open road that I craved and so in 2015, I dusted off my trusty backpack and set off again with a one-way ticket to the palm-fringed shores of Tahiti, the promise of adventure on the horizon and the hope of making a life of travel my new normal.
Several months later in a beat-up brown van in a tiny beach town in central California, The Sandy Feet was born.
Check transport options here.
Six months turned into one year which melted into 18 months and eventually it was time to return to the sunny shores of Sydney and begin a new chapter.
One of tiresome daily commutes, meticulous timesheets and weekends that were all too fleeting.
Check the timetable here.
To reach Ainsa, Avanza operates several bus routes from Torla-Ordesa, Barbastro and Sabiñánigo. The hike to Wolkenstein traces the gentle folds of the landscape, past charming log cabins and crystalline lakes, beneath uneven rock falls and through densely packed forests until suddenly you emerge at the backstreets of the village.
On the way, you’ll pass a number of rifugios, like Troier and Pieralongia, but stick to the higher trail and eventually the valley will funnel you toward my favourite spot, Rifugio Firenze or Regensburger Hütte which offers beautiful views over the mountains and has a good selection of snacks and drinks.
If the wind is right, you might also be in for a real treat as dozens of paragliders take to the sky, gliding and twirling gracefully above the dagger-like spires.
The Hike | 12 km, 3 to 4 hours
Get There | Take the cable car from Ortisei to Seceda (€22 one way) to begin the hike, and to return, take any of the regular buses that run between Wolkenstein-Nivesplatz (referred to as Selva di Val Gardena in Italian) and Ortisei, costing €1.50 or free with Val Gardena Mobil Card.
There are no direct buses which travel into the Pineta Valley, however you can get as far as Bielsa by bus.
Autocares Bergua travels daily between Ainsa and Bielsa during July and August, and three times a week at other times of the year.
While the name harks back to my deep love of the ocean, the feeling of toes in the sand and a boundless sea on the horizon, you’ll find a whole lot more than just beach inspiration over here.
Hiking adventures, epic road trips and beautiful nature are just as much, if not more, part of the picture.
Here on The Sandy Feet you’ll find practical, honest travel advice, attainable adventures from far-flung corners of the globe and beautiful photography to stoke your wanderlust.
I want to help you plan the best trip ever, whether you’re thirsting for the waves, the mountains or the crumbling walls of a wonderfully photogenic old town.
Distance | 7.9 km to 9.4 km
Duration | 2.5 to 4 hours
Elevation Gain | 251 m to 499 m
Difficulty | Easy to Moderate
Location | Pyrenees National Park
Trailhead | Gavarnie
Accommodation (Luz-Saint-Saveur) | Hôtel Terminus | Les Remparts | La Parenthèse du Tourmalet
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Carved over thousands of years of glacial erosion, the UNESCO-listed Cirque de Gavarnie is one of the most remarkable natural features in the entire Pyrenees range, home to the tiered Grande Cascade de Gavarnie, the highest waterfall in France, and a dazzling amphitheatre of cliffs that soar to a height of 1,500 m and form the natural border with Spain where the magnificent Ordesa Valley lies in wait on the opposite side.
The powerful and enchanting Cirque de Gavarnie should be included in every first-time visit to the French Pyrenees, except, it would seem, my own.
In the lead up to my trip, localised flooding within the Gavarnie Valley caused severe road and track damage and was closed for public safety which, unfortunately, meant I was forced to scrap my plans for area.
While the cirque hikes have since reopened, keep in mind that other roads and trails in the area are still undergoing maintenance.
There are three trails into the Cirque de Gavarnie that travel via the Main Path or chemin principal, the Espugues Cornice and the Bellevue Plateau which was the route I had intended to complete.
The main path is the classic, easy option which follows a wide well-trodden track along the valley floor to the Hôtellerie du Cirque, while the Espugues Cornice is the most challenging route, ascending sharply from the valley floor and wrapping high along the eastern wall of the valley towards the cirque.
Finally, the circular Bellevue Plateau trail climbs gradually up the western flank of the valley to lush meadows that present enviable views of the cliff face and its waterfall before returning to the valley floor.
At the far end, it’s also possible to tack on a slightly more difficult detour to all three hikes which brings you to the base of the majestic Grande Cascade in around half an hour.
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TOP TIP | Along with the Ordesa Valley and Pont d’Espagne, Cirque de Gavarnie is arguably one of the most famous attractions in the Pyrenees and is extremely popular in summer so arriving early to beat the crowds and, more importantly, secure a parking spot is essential.
Along with Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Seceda is one of the Dolomites most recognisable sights – a series of razor-sharp spikes dressed in a velvety blanket of grass that tumbles toward the wide valley of Val Gardena sprawling into the distance.
Despite seeing it dozens of times online, visiting in person is nothing short of spectacular.
Starting from such a height, Seceda makes an excellent jump off point for a day hike as the only way to go is down.
Given the departure times, you will need to overnight in the area before and after your hike and either walk or hitchhike the remaining 14 km from Bielsa to the trailhead. If you’re having trouble loading the page, try using a VPN localised for Spain and stick to the Spanish version rather than translating it to English.
From Zaragoza, Huesca or Pamplona, travel to Sabiñánigo by bus or train and then transfer to an Avanza bus to Ainsa.
Check the timetable here.
Annoyingly, the Avanza website is notoriously glitchy for foreigners.